Rolex is the #1 counterfeited watch brand in the world. It also is probably the best known. Counterfeit Rolex watches are quite easy to spot if you know what to look for. Here’s 5 simple ways to tell:
1. Second Hand Movement – Save for a short time where Rolex made Quartz powered watches (OysterQuartz) all Rolex movements are mechanical. This means that they have a smooth sweeping motion when the second hand moves around the dial – “ticking” about 5-8 times per second.
Many high end fakes will almost duplicate this effect but the keyword is ALMOST – even most of the high end fake watches tick around three to four times a second. This still generates a similar “sweeping” illusion but it is immediately apparent that it is not as smooth as a genuine Rolex movement.
2. Clear Case Back – Of course, if dealing with a (supposed) Rolex that is ticking very obviously, stay away! This leads to another apparent counterfeit giveaway – the clear case back. Perhaps it is the fact that many Rolex counterfeits used to employ a battery powered quartz movement, but many replica manufactures (and possibly owners) must be very proud of the fact that their unit is powered by a perpetual movement.
You won’t see a battery, but a real mechanical movement ticking away. These are easily made (low quality ones) and are no indication of a real Rolex. These counterfeiters may be proud of their mechanical movement, but a clear case back Rolex has never been produced so seeing one is a clear indication of a replica.
3. Weight of the watch – Genuine gold and platinum are quite heavy. If you were to hold a genuine all gold Rolex in your hand you’ll notice it’s quite heavy. Most replicas do not come close to the weight of a genuine Rolex watch. If it’s surprisingly light, it’s a good idea to dig deeper into other features.
4. Date Magnification (Cyclops) – The Cyclops lens is visible on all Rolex models that show the date. It is a sphere shaped piece of glass that magnifies the date about 2.5x. Counterfeiters often try and copy this poorly.
A replica Rolex will often use a lower magnification about 1.5x. An easy way to tell is to see if the date display is magnified enough to almost fill the whole window while looking directly at it.
5. Date and Bezel Rotation – Rolex has a proprietary process to manufacture all their watches and their quality control is world-class. Check the printing of the date number and see if it is well done. Also check for alignment in the window. If either of these are just a little off, chances are it’s a fake. Real Rolex watches are “perfect” and shouldn’t have even the tiniest imperfections.
If the watch you’re looking at has a rotatable bezel try and count the number of times it clicks in one rotation. Genuine Rolex bezels click about 120 times while fake ones usually only click about 60 times. The real Rolex bezel is muted and subtle and should feel very solid whereas a fake feels very “clicky” and loud.
Jaye Cadlah owns Time and Gems, an online retail store that has been selling Rolex watches since 1997. Go to their website to browse hundreds of Mens and Ladies Rolex watches or stop by their showroom located in downtown Los Angeles. TimeandGems.com also has comprehensive used Rolex buying guides, as well as a frequently updated blog talking about all things Rolex.
